Improper use of cosmetics may cause skin allergy, pruritus, desquamation, redness, redness, etc. According to the statistics of Ministry of health in 2003 and 2004, contact dermatitis is the most common in the six categories of cosmetics skin diseases, accounting for 82.6% and 93.3% of the total incidence of cosmetics skin diseases respectively. The common allergens of cosmetics contact dermatitis are mainly preservatives (about 30-40% of cosmetics dermatitis allergen), flavors and fragrances (about 20-30%), and surfactants (about 15%). In addition, sunscreens, antioxidants and antibacterial agents are common allergens for cosmetic dermatitis. These ingredients are necessary additives in cosmetics. People pay more and more attention to skin sensitivity. In recent years, the cosmetics industry is gradually developing in the direction of advocating green and returning to nature. It has become one of the most active themes in the development of cosmetics industry to develop natural anti sensitive active substances with unique efficacy and add them to cosmetics. Nowadays, there are many natural anti sensitive plant additives used in cosmetics, which are mainly divided into two categories: one is to extract effective ingredients from natural plants and apply them to cosmetics, mainly including chamomile, purslane, lavender, etc.; the other is to add vegetable oil extracted from plant seeds, pulp and other parts to cosmetics, mainly including blue. Thistle oil, seabuckthorn oil, etc. In this paper, the application of 12 kinds of natural plant extracts as anti sensitive materials in cosmetics was introduced.
1. Chamomile
1.1 antianaphylaxis ingredient and efficacy: Chamomile antianaphylaxis ingredient is mainly blue cigarette oil, which has a very good antianaphylaxis effect, can improve the phenomenon of blood vessel rupture, effectively repair blood vessels, restore and enhance the elasticity of blood vessels, improve the sensitivity of skin to cold and hot stimulation, relieve skin allergy, provide natural protective barrier for skin, effectively repair the blocked cuticle and help cuticle. Tier growth.
1.2 cosmetics products: Chamomile? Bilrou soothing series launched by France xuanerya cosmetics company, with chamomile essential oil as the main medium, its unique active ingredients can effectively moisturize and repair damaged cells, improve the skin's immunity and anti unloading ability, and rebuild the function of cell tissue. It is suitable for sensitive, fragile, water deficient, damaged skin, red blood and other skin.
2. purslane
2.1 antianaphylaxis ingredient and efficacy Portulaca oleracea is rich in bioactive amino acids, which has contractive effect on vascular smooth muscle, and this contractive effect has both central and peripheral, which can relieve skin and inhibit skin itching caused by dryness. It can also prevent skin from drying and aging, increase skin comfort and eliminate free radicals.
2.2 in cosmetics, purslane extract has the functions of anti sensitivity, anti-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory, as well as anti acne. Especially for the skin allergy caused by long-term use of hormone cosmetics, it has obvious anti allergic effect. Purslane extract is suitable for all kinds of cosmetics. It can be added to facial cleanser, shower gel, cream, lotion and curd. It can also be added to various hair care products (anti dandruff function in hair care products).
3. Lavender
3.1 lavender essential oil, which has anti allergy effect on skin, has a very fresh and elegant smell, can calm nerves, reduce pressure and calm down. It can be applied to any skin, promote cell regeneration, treat burns, inhibit bacteria and reduce scars. The essential oil extract can also effectively eliminate the hydroxyl radicals generated by the start chain reaction and the extended radicals generated after the chain reaction, and reduce and delay the oxidative damage of DNA caused by hydroxyl radicals. Lavender Mint Leaf non essential oil components can alleviate the damage of free radicals to the body in different degrees.
3.2 lavender, as a popular cosmetic product, has been widely used, among which essential oil is the most common. Many cosmetics manufacturers, such as camenae L'OCCITANE in France and Niuer in Taiwan, have vigorously launched Lavender cosmetics and skin care products.
4. Purslane
4.1 the effect of pseudoportulaca on experimental inflammation was compared with that of indomethacin. The results showed that pseudoportulaca could effectively inhibit the experimental inflammation by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis and stabilizing the lysosomal membrane, and could not cause gastrointestinal tract stimulation under the anti-inflammatory dose. Purslane extract can cure different types of inflammatory pupil.
4.2 false purslane, a cosmetics product, has been used in ancient India's classic herbal therapy for a long time, but it is not widely used in modern cosmetics. Only some extremely high-end cosmetics and some professional skin care centers use the extract of false purslane as one of the ingredients to relieve skin pressure.
5. Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi
5.1 anti sensitive effect on skin. According to the literature, Scutellaria baicalensis can obviously inhibit the delayed type allergic ear swelling in mice, forssman skin vascular inflammatory reaction in guinea pigs and the same passive skin allergic reaction in mice caused by 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene. It shows that Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi has a certain therapeutic effect on type I, II and IV allergic reactions. At the same time, Scutellaria baicalensis can inhibit the pruritus of mice and guinea pigs caused by low molecular dextran. It is also reported that Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi can inhibit the contraction of isolated ileum of guinea pigs caused by histamine, which shows that the drug has the effect of antagonizing histamine and has obvious anti allergic effect. In addition, Scutellaria baicalensis can also inhibit the ear swelling induced by xylene in mice, indicating that the drug has certain anti-inflammatory effect.
5.2 the application of Scutellaria baicalensis in cosmetics is limited to the cosmetics guided by traditional Chinese medicine, most of which are local brands. Only a few of the major international companies have launched Scutellaria cosmetics. Due to various constraints, Scutellaria baicalensis can not be widely promoted and applied in China.
6. paeoniflorin
6.1. It was found that TGP (5mg / kg / D) could significantly inhibit the excessive swelling of rat paw induced by carrageenan and prevent and treat the multiple arthritis. The mechanism may be related to the inhibition of TGP on the synthesis of local inflammatory factors, such as PGE and LTB. In another study, TGP was found to down regulate the production of excessive no by monocyte macrophages. The inhibitory effect of TGP on NO secretion may be related to its anti-inflammatory mechanism.
6.2 in the application of cosmetics, it is worth noting that 80% of paeoniflorin products prepared by East China University of science and technology in 2007 with Paeonia as raw material have been put into industrial production. As an additive of moisturizing cosmetics, it has strong moisturizing properties, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, whitening, anti allergy, improving blood, maintaining skin health and other effects, which can be used in the development of moisturizing cosmetics.
7. Flavonoids from bamboo leaves
7.1 the bioactive bioflavonoids extracted from bamboo leaves are a kind of high-efficient biological antioxidants and essential nutrients for human body. Bamboo leaf extract has good process characteristics. It is easy to dissolve in hot water and low concentration of alcohol. It has high water and thermal stability, good processing adaptability, and high antioxidant stability. When the local concentration is greatly over the standard, tea polyphenol like oxygenation will not occur. At the same time, the leaf extract has a typical fragrance of bamboo leaves, fresh and pleasant, slightly bitter and slightly sweet. It can be widely used in anti-aging products, beauty cosmetics and other fields.
7.2 the antioxidants of bamboo leaves developed from flavonoids of bamboo leaves have been listed in the national standard and become the national recognized natural antioxidants. Anji Shengshi Biological Products Co., Ltd. is one of the first batch of domestic manufacturers specializing in the production, sales and development of bamboo leaf flavonoids. At the same time, the production of AOB was completed first. A series of products were developed with bamboo leaf flavonoids as the main raw material. In this field, the company has the leading level at home and abroad.
8. Olive leaf extract
8.1 the olive leaf extract has a good inhibitory effect on infective microorganisms. It can prevent the invasion of fungi, molds and yeasts, as well as the attack of mild and severe bacterial infection and protoparasitic infection. Not only preventive, olive leaf extract provides a safe and effective treatment in the fight against microorganisms. It has been proved that the extract only attacks pathogens and is harmless to human intestinal bacteria, which is an advantage over artificial antibiotics.
8.2 the market of related cosmetics based on olive or olive oil has developed more mature. As olive originated from the Mediterranean area, there are many cosmetics brands related to its origin in Europe. Now, dozens of brands have launched corresponding products, such as French Biotherm, French jiameile, French Euclidean and Japanese jianabao. But most products focus on the emollient effect of olive ingredients. At the same time, there are many olive essential oils on the market. With the advantages of non irritant olive oil, it can make the skin absorb better.
9. Hamamelis
9.1 the anti sensitive components and effective tannins are the main active components of Hamamelidaceae, also known as tannins or tannins. They are complex polyphenols with large molecular weight in plants. It can be divided into hydrolysable tannin and non hydrolysable tannin. Tannin has strong astringency, can coagulate the protoplasm of microorganism, and has certain antibacterial effect.
9.2 European and American countries are mainly engaged in the application research of Hamamelis extract for allergic dermatitis, skin disease prevention and skin astringent cosmetics. The food and Drug Administration of the United States calls it a safe and effective astringent. Using Hamamelis extract, huawang company of Japan developed a new type of "diaper", which can effectively inhibit and alleviate the symptoms of skin rash in infants.
10 OPC
10.1 the main anti sensitive components and efficacy components are grape seed extract (OPC) and glucosamine hydrochloride (ammonia sugar). The scientific name of grape seed extract is procyanidin, which is a special Bioflavonoid Complex with super antioxidant capacity. Its antioxidant capacity is 20 times of vitamin C and 50 times of vitamin E. OPC antioxidants can not only stabilize the cell membrane of mast cells and basophils, so that they will not release histamine, 5-hydroxytryptamine, slow reactive substances and other allergic reaction media even under the effect of strong allergens, but also improve the tolerance of mast cells and basophils to stimulation and the tolerance of the whole body to external stimulation by eliminating free radicals. Since OPC antioxidants are pure natural extracts, there are no side effects of any antiallergic drugs. In addition, OPC has a large concentration and a long half-life in vivo, which can play a more effective role.
10.2 thousands of tons of OPC Portuguese Duoan are exported to European and American countries every year, which are widely used in medicine and health food as nutritional supplements. The large capacity Portuguese aromatherapy whitening essence of French flower contains high purity levo VC essence. It delivers the whitening and moisturizing ingredients at full speed, rapidly decomposes the pigment, and inhibits and lightens the melanin function for a long time. It can also effectively lock the moisture of the skin and replenish the nutrition of the skin.
11. Artichoke oil
11.1 the anti sensitive ingredient, which is rich in Omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids, can promote cell regeneration, act on inflammation, restore the fluidity of cell membrane, make the cell exchange more smooth, and keep the skin elastic and tight. Artichoke oil is the only known anti-aging ingredient for sensitive skin.
11.2 artichoke oil is a very excellent raw material of plant cosmetics. It has been a relatively successful product in Europe. At present, domestic products are just starting. Aurelian Cosmetics Co., Ltd. has launched a series of soothing products with artichoke oil as the main ingredient, which can relieve sensitive skin symptoms and make you feel fresh and comfortable after use. It also contains natural moisturizing factor - sodium hyaluronate, which can replenish water and strengthen skin's ability to lock water. No spices or alcohol. It is suitable for sensitive skin after dermatology test.
12. Seabuckthorn oil
There are a lot of unsaturated fatty acids in sea buckthorn oil, many of which can't be synthesized by human body and must be taken from the outside. Among them, linoleic acid and linolenic acid are the most important. When they are deficient, they can cause the metabolism disorder of skin to water and easily lead to the occurrence of skin rash.
summary
It has become a new trend of cosmetics market to obtain natural cosmetics additives with unique efficacy from plants. In this paper, the application of 12 kinds of natural plant extracts as anti sensitive materials in cosmetics was introduced. Among them, lavender, olive, artichoke oil and other raw materials are most widely used, and the rest are in the small-scale R & D and production stage. Among them, Scutellaria, Paeonia, groundbell and other plant raw materials have obvious anti allergy and soothing effects, and have great development and utilization prospects. It is believed that in the future research and application, because of its wide sources, good efficacy, high safety and low cost, more and more cosmetics brands will develop a series of anti sensitive and comfortable cosmetics products with natural plants as additives, so as to eliminate their distress for more sensitive skin consumers.